Alive and Well in Midvale, Idaho

We will catch up tomorrow!

Day 12 - Memories of Three Long Distance Bike Trips (In Reverse)

The road never ridden...(see below)

We had a nice hot breakfast at the Best Western Plaza Hotel and then prepared for the day’s trip to Jackson.  But before departing, we toured the Hot Springs State Park, adjacent to our hotel.  Even though the morning was chilly, we were warmed by the heat of the vaporizing hot mineral waters. 

The park has an interesting geological history.  According to the Wyoming State Geological Survey:  “The springs emerge from the crest of the Thermopolis anticline, which is a large geologic fold that formed during the Laramide orogeny (70–35 million years ago). The Laramide mountain-building event faulted and folded the red Triassic-age rock layers seen around the hot springs, and the hot water is thought to be traveling up to the surface along those faults.

Big Spring is the largest of the park’s springs, with hot water flowing across an impressive system of terraced travertine down to the Bighorn River. Travertine forms by precipitation of carbonate minerals from hot water, and builds up over time forming terraced steps. The bright colors are caused by the incorporation of thermophilic organisms like bacteria and algae into the travertine. Extensive travertine, sulphur, and gypsum deposits mostly west of the river indicate hydrothermal activity has not always been confined to its present location.”

Driving from Thermopolis to Shoshoni along the Wind River Canyon Scenic Byway was glorious. The Byway has amazingly beautiful rock walls rising 2,500 vertical feet on either side to the ridge tops and you can see some of the oldest rock formations in the world, dating back to the Precambrian period, (over 2.9 billion years ago) visible right from the highway.  There are informative interpretive signs along the way.

The headwaters of the Wind River are at Wind River Lake, near Togwotee Pass. The river flows southeastward to Riverton where it makes a turn and begins flowing north to Thermopolis.  At the “Wedding of the Waters,” the Wind River officially becomes the Rocky Mountain Bighorn River, named for the mountain sheep indigenous to the area.

From Shoshoni to Jackson we traversed the same highways we took on our bike trips in 1982, 1995, and 2011.  Funny how memory works.  We had always felt that when we cycled the 122 miles down to Shoshoni from Togwotee Pass, it was downhill the whole way, with minor exceptions.  True, Togwotee Pass is at 9658 feet elevation and Shoshoni, at 4852 feet.  But in between, one climbs almost 1300 feet.  

Another memory fail:  Diane, navigator, reminded Rob that eight miles south of Shoshoni we would turn west onto Wy. 134, and would then turn south after 24 miles to intersect with US 26 West.  But about two miles south of Shoshoni, Rob turned west on an unmarked paved road, convinced it was the one we had bicycled on previously.  It wasn’t until several (Rob disagrees that it was “several” ) miles later, when the road we were on took a definitive turn north, that Rob acknowledged the memory fail. We had a good laugh over that one.

As we approached Jackson, we realized that half of the North Pathway we had planned to bike was one we had already biked in 2011.  That fact, plus the smoky atmosphere resulting from the Roosevelt forest fire 30 miles south of Jackson, which has burned over 50,500 acres since September 15, led us to nix the bike ride.  Instead, we will take more time sightseeing in the Craters of the Moon National Monument and Reserve. 

Pictures from the Hot Springs State Park

Devil's Punch Bowl... extinct hot springs

Mineral deposits on river cliff with hot springs water flowing into the Big Horn River. 

Diane wafting in sulfur aroma from the shallow hot springs pool.

Diane at White Sulfur Springs.  Site of an early Hot Springs Spa.

Wind River Canyon

The mighty Tetons with a smudge of gray on their face due to the forest fire south of Jackson, WY

Day 11 - A Beautiful Ride (In the Transit)

The Little Transit that could........

Boy did we see some beautiful country today.  We left Deadwood headed south so we could take the Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway up to I-90 at Spearfish.  Absolutely gorgeous! 

Next we retraced our route on I-90 to Buffalo, Wyoming, where we had a tasty deli lunch in the Transit, then turned southwest on US 16 for a 90 mile drive to Worland.  A major portion of this route is the Cloud Peak Skyway Scenic Byway, curving and twisting up and down on an excellent highway, with more incredible scenery.  From 4646 feet elevation at Buffalo, we climbed 9666 feet to the Powder River Pass, and then descended and climbed, descended and climbed (don’t know how many times) and ended up in Thermopolis at 4341 feet.   

We had an excellent Thai dinner (yes, we love Thai cuisine), and then Diane took a long soak in the hotel’s mineral spa while Rob relaxed in our luxurious hotel room.

Tomorrow we drive to Jackson, Wyoming, in the heart of the Tetons, a place that holds special memories for us.

Fall Aspens and Pines with snow-kissed boughs. 

One of the multiple rock faces along the Cloud Peak Skyway.

Diane on the main drag of Thermopolis. The statue celebrates the first 100 yrs of the community and its ranching heritage. 

Day 10 - Last Day on the Mickelson

Carsten Cottages....

We had a simple breakfast at the Cottages and were very close to getting on the trail by 9:00.  We had a short but sweet ride, at first a gentle climb, and then a relatively rapid 13 miles downhill into Deadwood.  Along the way there was a little trail maintenance (< 50 feet), requiring us to dismount.

The 17-mile ride itself took about one and half hours, but we took time for a few photo opportunities. 

After Rob returned from taking Paul to his car, we had lunch and then toured the Adams Museum.  It has many wonderful exhibits and history about Deadwood and the Black Hills. We found particularly interesting:  Potato Creek Johnny’s 7.346 troy ounce gold nugget; American illustrator N.C. Wyeth’s pencil sketch drawing of Wild Bill Hickok; stories and photographs of Calamity Jane; the mysterious Thoen Stone record of the Ezra Kind party’s discovery of gold in the Hills in the 1830s; and a plesiosaur (marine reptile) fossil, discovered by Charles & Arthur Haas in 1934, and almost 30 years later determined to be of a species previously unknown to science.

And now we prepare for tomorrow’s Transit ride to Thermopolis, Wyoming, home to numerous natural hot springs.  We hope to take a warm soak.

Diane & Rob

One of the trestles along the trail. 

Diane maneuver through some trail work.

Fall comes to the Trail.

South Dakota skies on our last day on the trail.

Happy Trails to all from the end of the Mickelson Trail. 

Day 9 - The Men Go It Alone

Paul's photo of one the rock faces created by railroad blasting tunnels through the Black Hills.

Diane:  The Men were off by 9:00 or so.  I hung out in the hotel reading the NYTimes.  I feel much better after a day of rest.  I started out in Paul’s car from Hill City at 10:15 and two hours later I arrived at Carsten Cottages.  I knew it was a 29-mile drive and I knew the road was winding.  I didn’t know most of those miles were gravel.  (Sorry, Paul!). Frequently I could see the trail and cyclists on it, but I never saw Paul and Rob.  When I arrived at Carsten Cottages I prepared for the evening meal and next day’s ride, then relaxed some more, taking in the beauty around me. The Men arrived close to 2:00. 

Paul on his bike.

Rob: So now I know how Diane feels. I chased Paul the whole ride as he graciously stopped periodically to take a photo and let me catch-up. (I also know he just plain rode slow and could have been to the cottages a full hour ahead of me.)  My only plausible defense is that he was on an updated an 80’s Bianchi racing bicycle that I can lift above my head with one hand, while I am riding a 90’s converted Trek Mountain bicycle. Whatever the case, Paul, you are a gentleman. We did make the 31 miles (2/3 uphill) in about 3.5 hours. And while the ride was very scenic, the most lasting impression I have is looking up from grinding along to see Paul’s backside some distance ahead. Diane, following along on many of our rides always says, "well at least you have a cute behind" - I have no comment on Paul posterior.

Diane and Rob: Once the guys arrived and showered we visited a while then made our respective dinners, and gathered at the McDaniel cabin to enjoy dinner and further conversation.  We made further plans on handling the next day.  We would ride together to Deadwood, leaving most of our belongings in Paul’s car.  Then Rob would drive Paul back to his car, and take all our stuff from Paul’s car and put into the Transit.  (Paul had initially intended to bicycle back to his car, but decided to forego the exercise so he could more quickly start his return trip to Iowa.)

Tomorrow we have a fun almost 17-mile downhill run to Deadwood and the finish of the Mickelson Trail.

Diane and Rob

This part of the Trail is "beaver country" and it is fun to see their many dams along the way.

Of course humankind's presence is always found along the trail.  Most often fairly benevolent, but sometimes there are reminders of the unfriendly-environmental mining practices of the past, such as illustrated in the picture of the red barn below covered with cyanide barrel lids.

 

But in the end, the beauty of the Black Hills remains.

Day 8 - Riding The Mickelson With Paul

We had a leisurely morning in Edgemont – Christina of Highline Adventures picked us up in Edgemont at 10:30 and drove us to the Custer Trailhead.  This company provides a much-needed service – very professional with reasonable rates.  Christina knows a lot about the Mickelson Trail and we enjoyed talking with her.

It was great bicycling weather – no cowboying up needed.  We started up the climb at about noon, taking in views from the different direction perspective.  After climbing for 3.5 miles, we stopped to take a photo when we saw a very familiar face coming down the trail toward us – Paul!  We had expected to meet him in Hill City, but he surprised us by getting to us before we got to him.  It was another 1.6 miles to the top of the climb, and then a very fast and exhilarating downhill (led by Paul) for the next 10.5 miles. 

We got into Hill City just in time to have a great late lunch at the Alpine Inn.  A Reuben and iced tea for Paul, and for Rob and Diane - fresh and smoked bratwurst served with German potato salad, sauerkraut, red cabbage and German bread.  (Diane gave her bread to Rob, who also had a Hefeweizen). Rob and Diane also indulged in decadent desserts.  For her a Raspberry White Chocolate Mousse (a creamy white chocolate mousse layered with a raspberry sauce and white chocolate chips); for him a Chocolate Peanut Butter Ice Cream (Oreo cookie crust layered with a creamy peanut butter filling and peanut butter fudge ice cream. Garnished with Reese’s crumbles and drizzled with fudge). 

At lunch we concocted a plan to help Diane deal with her increasingly painful left shoulder and arm.  Give her a day’s rest yet allow Rob and Diane to keep on schedule.  Instead of cycling the 31 miles to Carsten Cottages tomorrow with Paul and Rob, she will drive Paul’s car (loaded with her bike and gear and a good portion of the contents of Rob’s panniers, and groceries for tomorrow’s dinner and Monday’s lunch). 

After lunch, and showers in our respective lodging, the three of us hung out together and caught up on some of the goings-on in our lives, then shared dinner at Maria’s.  It was a fun day!

Hoping that Diane heals with tomorrow’s rest and that Rob can keep up with Paul during the mostly uphill ride.

Diane & Rob

Paul joins on the trail. 

One of many majestic views along the trail.

Actually we didn't bike enough to earn this meal (dessert not shown),
but what the hell. 

Day 7 - A Trail Not Traveled

Happy Trails!

We had a good start today – on the trail by 8:30, 41 degrees and sun.  A slight one-mile rise, and then the downhill began!  This part of the trail is generally thought of as not so scenic as the rest, but we found beauty everywhere.  During the some 28 miles between Custer and the Minnekahta Trailhead, which was mostly downhill, the geology changed from the black hills conifer forest, to pretty grass lands.  There were mica-speckled rocks everywhere, glistening in the sun.  We still saw deer, but not so many.  New to us today was a hawk, yellowish birds that we think might be pine warblers, and wild turkeys.

The trail was in good condition and we were making good time.  And then we got to the Minnekahta Trailhead, where we had planned to have lunch from our packs, and then sail into Edgemont, just 16 miles south.  We were greeted with a sign “Trail Work Ahead.”  Luckily, a SD Parks employee was working on the Trailhead structure, and he dissuaded us from going further on the trail.  He explained there was 11 miles of trail work – pouring new gravel top, some of which was in a furrow down the middle of the trail, with a half-dozen semi-dump trucks going back and forth, creating dust clouds.  In other words, the trail was not really passable.  But the work had not been announced to the public, since the trail was not being shut down.

And so, we took to the highway – US 18.  The highway had a great shoulder - wide and smooth.  We had one big hill to conquer, but then it was downhill to Edgemont.

Tomorrow we will begin making our way back to Deadwood.  We will use a shuttle service to get us back to Custer and from there we will cycle to Hill City, were we will hook up with a friend from Iowa, who will ride with us back to Deadwood.  More fun times!

Rob & Diane

Diane gives herself over to the cool bright South Dakota morning! (Actually she is stretching her sore shoulder, but I like the "poetic" explanation better.)

Rolling along at 10 mph enjoying the glide south....

.... enjoying the periodic rock monoliths. 

As you may know on every ride Rob has to take one picture of Diane over his shoulder as they both cruise along,

And here is Rob's obligatory wildflower photo....these are some of last flowers of this season. 

Diane wanted to share with you a photo of the gates that easily allow cyclists to pass through fenced pastures while assuring cattle do not get out. (The gate swings away from the left post  and once you are through the weight on the chain pulls it back to close.)

Along the trail, on the top of a rise out in the middle of nowhere, someone had decided to mix business with kindness.  The ice chest contains cold water bottles with a request for one dollar a bottle. 

Somewhat benign sign simply saying Trail Work Ahead........

.....the semi dump trucks proved the sign should have read "Major Trail Work Ahead. Proceed at Your Own Risk."

Diane insisted I close this entry with a photo of her showing you the hill she had conquered on US 18. 

Day 6 - Up and Over and Into Custer

Heavy thunderstorms passed through Custer during the early morning (2ish) and again around 8:00.  When we hit the trail at 9:30, the rain had stopped.  But because Rob had noted the temperature was around 50 degrees, Diane thought it better to not cowboy up.  That meant three layers on the top (Smartwool long-sleeve tank, thin long-sleeve jersey, and Shower Pass wind/rain jacket), and cold/wet weather headband and gloves.

We started a nine mile climb as soon as we were on the trail, a gentle incline at first, but quickly transitioning to a steeper grade.  Within 15 minutes, even though the temperature had not increased, she was too warm.  So off went the jacket, and she traded her headband and gloves for the lighter set.  As we continued further up the climb, she removed her Smartwool shirt, to cycle with only the jersey. 

This portion of the trail was also in great condition, the scenery spectacular and wildlife abundant. In addition, we stopped for a few minutes to admire the Crazy Horse Memorial, visible from the trail. 

When we reached the top of the nine-mile climb, Diane donned her rain jacket again, in preparation for the fast cool six-mile glide into Custer.  Even though we arrived at 12:30, the EconoLodge happily accommodated us with early check-in, a ground floor room, and rags to wipe down our bikes.

Again, we met up with Gene and Judy for another afternoon of fun and good cheer.  First, we chowed down on buffalo burgers and huckleberry ice cream in downtown Custer.  Then we went to their Keystone Fuzion 5^th Wheel (a fantastic recreational vehicle) where we spent the late afternoon.  Then back into town for a cocktail, and all too soon it was time to say good-bye. 

Tomorrow is almost all down hill for some 45 miles.  And unless it is pouring down rain (not expected) Diane will definitely cowboy up!

Rob & Diane

 

Wanted to start today's picture travelog with a nod to the stewards of the Mickelson Trail.  The trail surface has been in consistently good shape the whole way and the trailhead facilities have been excellent. 

 

One of the many great views along today's ride. 

The little tree that could.

The Crazy Horse Monument. 

Diane checking out rail artifacts gathered for passersby's admiration. 

Day 5 – Gravelers in the Mist

We awoke to gray skies and a heavy mist.  We wanted to get an early start this morning, given the distance ahead and the possibility of rain.  We had a simple breakfast – hard cooked eggs and toast with butter and jam, coffee for Diane and hot chocolate for Rob.

 

Before we could begin our ride we first had to push our bikes up a steep gravel driveway, across the highway, and up a steep embankment to the trail.  With that accomplished, Rob sprayed our bike chains with WD-40 and at 8:30 a.m. we began our ride in the gray morning mist, which accompanied us for most of the day.

The first 17 miles we coasted.  The downside was the windchill together with the misty rain that made us both wet and cold.  But when we climbed the next seven-miles, the mist lifted and we dried out and warmed up enough to shed our rain garb and cold weather gloves.  And for the first time on today’s ride, Rob could fully see through his glasses.

This was a very scenic ride—punctuated by deer bounding across the trail; a cow and calf on the trail staring us down momentarily before they yielded; lots of chipmunks and squirrels; a variety of birds; and though we never saw the beavers, we saw their dam and hut. 

The last eight miles were all downhill and we accomplished our goal of beating the rain by getting to our hotel in Hill City just before it hit.  We were in the saddle four hours, and given the seven-mile climb, our average speed of 8 mph is respectable for fully loaded gravel touring.

The highlight of our evening was spending time with Gene and Judy.  We celebrated their anniversary with a good Mexican dinner at Maria’s, then coffee and dessert at the Slate Creek Grill, accompanied by stories and laughter.

Tomorrow we reward ourselves with a 14 mile gravel jaunt to Custer where we spend more time with Gene and Judy and do a little sightseeing (and laundry). 

Diane & Rob

Leaving Carsten Cottages in the misty morn.

Ferrying bikes up to the trail (excuse the rain drops on the lens).

Gliding alone through the mist. 

Diane smiling while thinking - damn I am cold.

We rode with water most of the day..............

.....and were rewarded with a beaver hut.

There are four short tunnels on the Mickelson Trail, none long enough to require lights.....

....but Tunnel A is a little tricky because the floor has a high crown with ditches against both wall.  Get to far left or right and you are going to crash.