Day 21 – Historic US 30 and Portland Redux – October 5

We awoke early, a little sad to be at the end of our adventure, but looking forward to the day and the drive through the beautiful Columbia River Gorge.  Just west of The Dalles we left I-84 to drive a nine-mile section of the Historic Columbia River Highway (U.S. 30).  Not only were we sightseeing, we wanted to scope out a portion of the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail for a future bicycle ride.

The highway was a gloriously twisty climb, from the floor of the gorge to the tops of cliffs over 900 fee above the river, with stunning vistas cloaked in fall colors.  The Transit seemed to enjoy the drive as much as we did, because it performed flawlessly.

Thankfully, during this part of our drive, there was no rain.  But almost as soon as we returned to I-84, a steady rain began, leading us to forego a stop at Multnomah Falls.  (No worries – Diane had been to the falls before, and given our intent to return for a bicycling adventure, Rob will see them in the future.)

Instead, we hatched a new plan – bicycle-related!  We would drive into Portland’s Alberta Arts District, one of our favorite places, have lunch at Bollywood Theater  (delicious authentic Indian cuisine – Pork Vindaloo for Diane and Aloo Tiki, Chole, Chutney & Paratha for Rob) and dessert at Back  to Eden (100% plant based, vegan & gluten free and totally delicious) and explore the wonderful wares at the Community Cycling Center.  That plan (which replicates our 2016 celebration of our 46^th anniversary) turned out to be quite satisfying.  We not only had wonderful food, we got some good used bicycle parts, and for Diane, new waterproof cycling gloves.  Her last pair were a gift from her dear mother, way back in 2000, when she learned Diane was occasionally wearing yellow Playtex Living Gloves over her non-waterproof cycling gloves.  Since we were on a roll, we also stopped at Bike Clark County, just across the Columbia River, in Vancouver, WA, and got some more used cycling goods.

Two hours later, our adventure was complete.  We pulled into the driveway.  Our house was still standing, and thanks to our fine neighbor, Jim, our houseplants were thriving.   We put things away, did laundry and grocery shopping, and capped off the evening with an end-of-adventure-celebratory toast of Drambuie.  Yum! 

Happy trails to all!

Rob and Diane

Traveling up out of the Gorge on Hwy 30

The view from the top. 

Diane with the mystical beaver on Alberta Street. 

Already planning another ride :)

Day 20 – Rolling Along the Columbia – October 4

View of the Columbia from the Riverfront Trail

The Riverfront Trail is a 6.5-mile trail along the Columbia River.  Someday it may be a 10-mile trail but not yet.  Nonetheless, we very much enjoyed our 13 mile ride this morning. Our timing was perfect, because it was neither too cold nor too hot nor too windy.  It was fun to be on asphalt again, coasting down hills and scurrying up hills with virtual ease.

After that, we toured the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and Museum.  The displays and information and videos were incredibly interesting and informative, but we were heartbreakingly reminded of what we had done to this once beautiful wild river and its native peoples, destroying Indian villages along its banks, and diminishing salmon runs that were part and parcel of the Indian way of life.

We had a reasonably-healthy lunch at Cousins  (ok – Rob had soup & salad, but Diane’s fries were fresh cut and “untreated” with preservatives, etc.).  After that, a little sightseeing.  Then later, for dinner, we finished off the remaining delicious Thai food from the night before.  (We usually choose hotel rooms with a refrigerator and microwave so we can save and reheat left-overs.)

Tomorrow promises rain, but if its’s not too bad, we will stop at Multnomah Falls, the nation’s second highest year-round waterfall (620 feet).  In any event, we will be back in Olympia by end of day.

Diane & Rob

Map of the Trail at Trail head. Note there were also tools and an air pump available at this Bike Fixation Station :)

The Trail is a combination of urban riding and paved trail around and along the River's edge. 

The west end of the trail has some short but nasty ups and downs. 

But Diane conquered all!

Day 19 – From Tundra to Transit and On To The Dalles, Oregon

After another great breakfast at the Country Coffee Cabin we returned to the Trailhead Hostel and finished packing for transport to Weiser.  Elsa (Innkeeper) and her husband soon arrived in their 4-door Tundra and the guys loaded up the bikes (much lighter since our panniers had been removed) while I settled up with Elsa for the night’s lodging.  They are active with the association that manages the trail and so were interested to learn about our experience.

In no time at all we were back in Weiser and our cute little Transit, and headed west northwest to The Dalles, Oregon.  Once more, we had a not-too-unhealthy lunch in the Transit, and arrived at our destination in good time.

After updating our blog, we had another delicious dinner, this time at Montira’s Thai Cuisine.  Not only that –we learned about the Blue Zones Project, because the State of Oregon and Montira’s are participants.  The goal of the project is to help ­transform communities across the U.S. into areas where making healthy choices is easy, so tha people can live longer with a higher quality of life.  Eating wisely is just one of the areas addressed by the project.  (Iowa has 15 Blue Zone Communities, but alas, Washington has none.)

Tomorrow we’ll spend another day in The Dalles – we plan to ride the Riverfront Trail and visit the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and Museum.

Diane & Rob

Di & I Thai One On

Blogmaster hard at work

Day 18 – A Jarring Conclusion to our Ride on the Weiser River Trail - Cambridge to Midvale - Fourth & Final Day on the Weiser River Trail

Another leisurely morning, another satisfying breakfast, and another day of the Trail.  It was no better than our memory of this stretch, but at least it wasn’t worse.

We arrived at the Trailhead Hostel in good time.  We unloaded our panniers on the sidewalk, and deposited all the contents in our room, then took the bikes across the street to the City Park.  With a bucket, sponge and rags from the Hostel (they have EVERYTHING you need), we used the park’s water hydrant to fill the bucket and wash our bikes.  Boy were they dirty-it took multiple bucket loads to complete the job.  But they came out looking pretty darn good.  We shook out the dust on the panniers then wiped them down with damp rags.  We then got the laundry started (see what we mean), and had another Beanie Weenie lunch in the Hostel’s kitchen/dining area.

 

Later we had another nice dinner at the Country Coffee Cabin!  Rob had the soup and salad bar; Diane, grilled mahi mahi and salad bar.

And now we are back in room. 

As we reflect on our Weiser River Trail experience we celebrate the positives:  We are physically capable of riding rough stuff, just chose not to do it because the riding wasn’t much fun.  We did not have any flats on the trail, even though goat’s head vine was evident all along the trail.  We never dropped our bikes.  Although we had a few raindrops, it never poured on us.  We never got too hot nor too cold.  We met friendly and interesting people.  We laughed a lot and we made great memories. 

Tomorrow we shuttle to Weiser, pack up and head for The Dalles!

Diane & Rob

Happily on our way to the café for breakfast.

An example of the most typical surface on the trail, rough with gravel embedded in bumpy surface

Diane riding for a few seconds on a few yards of smooth trail.

At the first gate on today’s ride, someone left a note stating that a bear had been spotted at the next bridge on the trail.  We didn’t see the bear but the bear left us a note.

    A well-inhabited wasp nest attached to a bridge support.  Glad it was cold today.  The truly scary aspect of this is when you ride across these bridges, the structure makes a rumbling noise as it vibrates.  On a hot day, the wasps might have reacted badly. 

Dangerously close up view of the wasp nest

The end of the ride.  Our bikes ridden hard, but put up clean and dry.

Day 17 – Rock Riding Back to Cambridge - Third Day on the Weiser River Trail

We slept in a bit while Debra did some of her morning farm chores.  The breakfast she prepared for us was perfect – eggs benedict for Rob, eggs and hash browns for Diane, side bacon, more Chevre, and peaches for both of us.  Good strong coffee (Seattle’s Best), and for Diane, the best ever homemade orange marmalade on her GF toast!

And then it was time for getting back to the rocks.  Debra transported us to Mesa Siding, and off we went, mostly following the bike tracks left from our ride up the day before, but avoiding those tracks when they showed previous skids or sand dig-ins.  

Two highlights for Diane were (1) a long sweet eye contact with a beautiful doe that was just off the side of the trail about 15 yards away, and (2) a scenic view of the Weiser River as it curved away from the trail.  For Rob, a big pile of fresh bear scat in the middle of the trail.

We arrived at Cambridge in good time, checked into the Frontier Motel, which boasts of serving 5161 happy guests and 8 grouches since January 1, and had a Beanie Weenie lunch therein.  Later, we each had a NY Strip Steak dinner at Canyon Station Café, and dessert from the local mercantile (Butterfinger Ice cream Bars).  

All-in-all, a pretty good day.

Rob & Diane

Two wonderfully tasty breakfasts artistically presented:

Eggs Benedict for Rob

Eggs & Hash Browns for Diane

One of the unique and a little quirky aspects of this trail are the  mile markers.  Though fairly dramatic and tall, they are sometimes surprisingly difficult to see.  Note the number is parallel to the trail, which can only be discerned as you pass it.  On most trails the mile markers are perpendicular, so they can be read as you approach.

Once more into the breach.  Diane riding south toward Cambridge.

Day 16 – Shorter and Better but not Better Enough - Midvale to Mesa Siding -2nd day of Trail

After a great breakfast at the Midvale café, we decided to take the innkeeper’s offer to shuttle us to Weiser on our return trip back down the trail, gave her a call and made the arrangements.

We were on the trail by 9:30. The ride to Cambridge was relatively flat and the trail surface was marginally better at times.  There were still sand traps, deep gravel, large rocks to dodge, and a deceptively large deep hole at one narrow pedestrian/bicycle gate (which Rob successfully navigated and quickly warned Diane—"STOP!”).

It may seem counterintuitive, but going through sand or deep gravel, it is important to keep your speed up as well as your ability to accelerate quickly in a tough spot.  That means you have to be in the right gear to do that.  If you’re in too easy a gear, you will simply spin your legs without applying any torque to increase your acceleration.  We have the proper technique, but Diane says she still feels an unpleasant adrenaline spike each time she needs to apply the principle.  But sometimes, you simply have to STOP and remain upright.  Diane did.

While taking a break at the Cambridge Trailhead, nine miles into the ride, we decided we would not ride to New Meadows the next day as planned, but would instead try to arrange for a shuttle to the top and then ride back downhill to Cambridge.  The ride from Cambridge to Mesa Siding was more scenic, with some portions that were actually pleasant to ride.  But they were short and few.  And four short stretches of the trail were worse than the day before.  By the time we had reached Mesa Siding, we decided to forego riding any further any direction on the portion between Mesa Siding and New Meadows. 

Our Elkhorn B&B innkeeper picked us up at the Siding right on time and we began enjoying the best part of the day!  But first, we rearranged our lodging, so we could bicycle back to Cambridge the following day, then on to Midvale for one more night at the Trailhead Hostel, and a shuttle to Weiser the next day!

The Elkhorn B&B is a working goat and sheep farm, run by Debra, an eclectic and energetic person with many skills and interests.  She fixed us dinner and treated us to several varieties of her Artisan Chevre (goat cheese) with different sweet and savory flavors.  We shared stories of our lives until it was time for us to turn in for the night.  She still had to milk goats, so it was at least another hour before she could call it a night. 

Diane & Rob

An example of the many cattle control gates across the trail.

The dangerous pothole averted.

Diane grinding up the trail toward Mesa Siding.

Grinding on the final rise to Mesa Siding.

Steeds at rest.

Day 15 – Bump and Gravel Grind – Weiser to Midvale - First day on the Weiser River Trail

Regrouping for Weiser River Trial Ride (no Diane did not bring the blue jeans)

The 31 miles we rode were extremely rough.  We cannot recommend this part of the trail to anyone who doesn’t have front suspension and at least two-inch tires.  (We have the latter, not the former.)  The surface is mostly ballast, punctuated by sandy stretches and hardened cattle tracks, and all uphill (we expected the uphill).  You have to keep eyes on the trail to avoid the large rocks and find the safest passage; otherwise, you and/or your bike is bound for injury. 

In addition, this part of the river is sluggish and murky.  Towards the second half of the ride, the river became more scenic, but you don’t really see it until you stop to take a drink and look around (taking a drink while biking is too risky). 

The saving grace of the day -- you end up in Midvale, an oasis, with good food and lodging.  We stayed at the Trailhead Hostel – it was really a great place to stay and we highly recommend it to all travelers.  The innkeeper had inquired of Diane about the trail, and Diane described the situation, saying she was hoping to make a friend of a pick-up owner who would drive us from Midvale to Weiser on our return date.  She said she would be that friend, and if we decided to do that, just let her know.

Our dinner at the Country Coffee Cabin was quite yummy – prime rib for Rob and grilled salmon for Diane.  There was also a well-stocked mercantile which met our needs.

Tomorrow will be a shorter (26 miles) and hopefully better, ride to Mesa Siding, which is just a gravel parking lot between the trail and US 95.  Our innkeeper at the Elkhorn B&B will pick us up there and transport us to her establishment, which is a working farm/ranch.

Looking forward to better!

Diane & Rob

One hour into the ride and only 5 miles covered.... can't make anytime because the trail is thick with gravel and very bumpy. 

The trail remained very rough so we jumped on a parallel road for a bit.... ah the joy of asphalt. 

After mile 10 the trail joins up with the Weiser River. 

In the lower reaches the River is slow, shallow and given to algae and moss - but is an interesting companion on your ride.

Back on the trail we entered a narrow canyon and the ride became more interesting but still rough. (I know it sounds like we are starting to whine.)

Diane approaching one of the many trestles on the trail all of which are in great shape and easy to traverse. (Is that better?)

Lunch on the trail. 

Go juice for the latter part of the day. 

Our accommodations in Midvale - a most excellent choice. Highly recommended for anyone passing through. 

Day 14 - A Flat Day

We left Bliss after a less than blissful breakfast and headed to Boise in anticipation of riding the Boise River Greenbelt.  Unfortunately, the section we wanted to ride was closed for construction.  So we ended up riding about 8 miles on an unsatisfying over-urbanized section.  Oh well.  We still had a fun picnic lunch in the park and then headed on to Weiser.

Like so many rural towns we have been through, Weiser is in a down-phase.  Our hotel was modest but met our needs.  (Don’t ask about the town’s only laundromat – disgusting!).  But we always seem to find bright spots, no matter where.  This time it was a pizza parlor – great gluten-free pizza and complimentary sodas. 

We returned to the hotel and unloaded the bikes, so we could repack our panniers, reducing our load for the trail.  That’s when we discovered Diane’s front tire was flat.  Upon a brief inspection, Rob found the reason:   Goat’s head thorn. (Tribulus Terrestris). Thankfully, there was only the one puncture and Rob fixed it in no time flat!!  (Pun intended.)  We’ve ridden these bikes about 1000 miles so far, and this was our first flat. We hope maybe, just maybe, this will be our only one for at least another 1000 miles.

We went to bed content and hopeful for our first day’s ride on the Weiser River Trail.

Rob & Diane

 

Unloading the bikes to ride the Boise River Greenbelt

Patching the flat.... 

Day 13 – An Ancient World – Crater of the Moon National Monument and Preserve

Lamb's Ear growing on lava dome

After having a great breakfast at The Virginian (where we first had breakfast in 2011 during our ride from Cape Flattery to Key West, AKA Bike Trip 2011) we were quickly on our way to see the Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve.  To get there, we ascended and descended two mountain passes.  The most dramatic one was the Teton Pass, between Wilson and Victor, with an elevation of 8431 feet, with 10% grades going up and down. 

Later after we drove through Arco we saw off in the distance a large butte, and then later two more buttes. Big Butte is a 300,000 year old butte some 2500 feet high.  Although East Butte is over 600,000 years old, it is smaller than Big Butte.  Middle Butte is, well, somewhere in the middle.

The real treat of the day, though, was The Craters of the Moon—a truly phenomenal place—a land of lava flows, a great rift, cinder domes and life growing out of seeming barrenness.  We took a four-hour self-guided motor & hiking tour of the preserve.  Pictures do not really do justice to this incredible place, but we share some of ours below.

We had dinner on the road to Bliss – purchased from a gas station convenience store:   Fritos + Frito Bean Dip + Soda Pop!  And then we were in the tiny town of Bliss - also a revisit from our 2011 bike trip.  We even stayed in the same hotel!  (No wonder—it is the only hotel.)

Diane & Rob

From the top of Teton Pass looking back at Jackson, WY..

The Transit says, "Whee...." after laboring up the 10% grade to the top of Teton Pass. 

Fall comes to Southeastern Idaho.

The following photos are all from the Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve.

AA lava in front of a cinder dome. For glossary of lava types and formations go the Crater of the Moon hot link. 

Classic lava flow.

Another lava flow. 

Diane on her way up the 1000 ft cinder dome. 

Diane climbing a splatter cone. 

Remnants of a cinder dome. 

Plants and trees have invaded the lava fields. From the ancient lichens to conifers. 

Green and orange lichens growing on basalt. 

White lichen on a huge cinder field. 

An unknown plant and grass among the basalt.

A Limber Pine growing from a crevice in a lava flow. (Google Limber Pine to discover its interesting characteristics.)

A pine with a better view. 

"A murdered Limber Pine."  In the 1960's Preserve trees with mistletoe were killed so as not to "infect" other trees. Over 6000 trees were killed. it was later learned the trees could survive the mistletoe.  Truly a case of the "cure being much worse than the disease."